How to do a Gaping Neck Adjustment on the Bondi Top

Today we are going to look at one of the most common adjustments for the Bondi Top. This can tend to happen if you have narrow shoulders or a larger bust causing the neck to gape open at the front.

Tip 1: Measure Upper Bust

My first tip is to make sure you have measured your upper bust and traced the coordinating size for your neck and shoulders. If your bust measures L but your upper bust is a M then you need to trace the neck and shoulders as a size Medium.

Tip 2: Test the Fit

My next tip is to make a mock up to test the fit and see if this issue occurs. When the shoulder seam is sitting on top of your shoulder (as shown below) and you can see the gapping in the front then you know you need to make this adjustment.

Making the Adjustment

Key for Following Illustrations:

Step 1: Pin It

The First step is to put a pin in your garment to take away how much it is gapping.

Now, because the fabric is on the fold, and you are only working on half a pattern piece, you only need to measure half of the total amount pinched. So if the total amount pinned ends up being 1" (2.5cm) the total amount we will be taking out to the pattern in the next steps is only 1/2" (1.2cm)

Step 2: Mark and Cut your Pattern

Next step will be to make a mark on your pattern. Draw a line, as shown below, from about 2/3 down from the shoulder and 1/3 up from the center from neck at a diagonal to your apex.

Side note: To find your apex, simply put the pattern up to your body and mark where your bust point is.

Once your line is drawn, cut on that line, as shown below.

Step 3: Overlap

Once your line is cut, I like to make a mark on either side of the cut at HALF of the amount of the TOTAL amount I need to take out. For example: If I need to take out 1/2" (1.2cm) TOTAL then I will mark 1/4" (.6cm) on either side of the cut line.

Then you will overlap your pieces to touch the lines you just marked.

I like to tape this down with masking tape or you can use a wide zigzag to secure it permanently.

Extra Adjustment: Adding a Side Dart

If you find that you have a lot to take out of the neck due to the difference between your chest and your bust, then you may want to go ahead and pivot out a side dart. This will give the top more shaping through the bust area with out the need to make the top too big.

Step 1: Mark Through Apex

Start by finding your apex. (Bust point) As mentioned before, simply but the pattern up to your body and mark your apex.

Next, draw a line from the neck through the apex down toward the side seam, as shown. Aim for just above the waist line mark.

Step 2: Cut and Adjust Pattern

Once your line is drawn, cut all the way through the line, or you can cut to the apex from the top and from the bottom and leave the apex as a hinge.

Next, overlap the neck the amount you need following the directions above.

What you will notice is that when you overlap at the neck, then the dart will automatically open up.

Step 3: Draw in the Dart

Now you need to draw in your dart. The dart point should start 1" (2.5 cm) away from your apex.

You may want to transfer and trace your altered pattern piece onto a new piece of interfacing and make another test before cutting into your good fabric.

I hope this little tutorial has helped you solve a fit issue you may be having. Remember that these same steps can be used for lots of other patterns if you are experiencing this issue, not just the Bondi Top.

Comment below and let me know if you have any questions. :)